Orto di Casa Cecconi

My first allotment, and then one thing leading to another…

L’orto di Casa Cecconi Plants Recipes Me & Kew One Year at Wisley

  • Apple pruning season

    Sizeable canker on an apple tree

    It’s apple pruning season, and you know why? Because the fruits have gone (so no knocking about) and the leaves are down so you can see the shape of the tree more clearly! Otherwise, apples are pretty tolerant of pruning at any time between leaf fall and bud burst, although you want to avoid rainy periods to prevent the spread of canker-causing fungus Neonectria galligena which compromises and eventually girdles a branch.

    Bark infected by rotting apple

    Incidentally, canker is also triggered by infection to the bark that rotting apples left on the tree do, so any discoloured areas need pruning off if found!

    But the pruning training today started with a visit to our
    nursery, where we propagate our own trees and grow clonal rootstock by stooling, which is then grown on for one more year before it’s grafted (whip and tongue, in the spring) or budded (in the summer, then cut back the following spring).

    Rootstocks

    Apples do not come true from seed, so apple trees are born as grafted cuttings or budded buds on a range of rootstocks that ensure

    • restricted growth (for smaller gardens, and smaller spaces and to make fruit more accessible for picking)
    • earlier fruiting (presumably because the energy of the plant doesn’t go into vegetative growth, being restricted)
    • some disease resistance (as rootstocks may be tougher than cultivars, which are chosen for flavour and looks of the fruits)

    The simples description of rootstocks I found on Reads Nursery website, but there are other useful ones, like the Aeron Vale Allotment Society’s. Rootstocks take the name of the research stations where they were first studied (M for East Malling, MM for the East Malling/Merton partnership) and a number, which bear no relations to the size of the tree. The most common being:

    • M25 full size, generally used for standard trees (cider apples) 
    • MM106 semi-vigorous, we use it for bush trees in the orchard (where it replaced M7, which was more winter hardy but suckered profusely)
    • M9/M26 (for containers) dwarfing
    • M27 the most dwarfing

    Pears have different rootstocks to apples, in the UK this being quince (Cydonia oblonga) such as semi-vigorous “Quince A” or dwarfing “Quince C”; because not all pear varieties are compatible with pears, they may be on an interstock too (quince rootstock/pear cultivar as interstock/pear cultivar as scion). For bigger trees there is a “Pyrodwarf” stock which is Pyrus and as such does not need interstock. Apple rootstock can be used for pears too, with an interstock of cultivar ‘Winter Banana’, which is compatible (I noticed it in the orchard as it is very prone to burr knots… which, by the way, are the initial of aerial roots, and can be planted).

    A burr knot
    Section of a burr knott Malus ‘Winter Banana’
    trunk covered in burr knots

    Depending on which rootstock you choose, you can train your tree – by pruning it-  in different ways: for apples, with M27 you can have stepovers, M9 is for spindles (more on this later) and cordons, from M26 you can train as espaliers… For pears, you will have “Quince C” for spindles, “Quince A” for bush and so on…

    Formative pruning

     

    Pruning is essential from the beginning in the life of a tree: initially, as formative pruning (for the first three years) it needs to be ruthless, to provide a strong framework of fruiting branches in the desired shape.

    A maiden whip is a new tree, that, having been grafted, at one year old has not sideshoots. If a maiden tree has sideshoots, it is called a feathered maiden.

    All pruning starts with a maiden. You prune it at about 75 cm for a bush, 1.5 m for a half standard, 2 m for a standard tree. The exact height depends where suitable buds are situated on the specific tree.

    With an unfeathered maiden, you cut at the suitable height, making sure there are at least 4 buds below the cut, from which 3-5 branches will develop for your framework. You may want to nick under the uppermost bud so it does not grow too vertical and vigorous (more here, unless, of course, you are going for a shape that requires a central leader).

    Pruning an unfeathered maiden for bush tree, year 1, a video

    With a feather maiden, it’s like you were a year ahead of an unfeathered maiden, as you already have branches. You cut off all lower shoots, leaving 4-5 well placed branches at the required height, then cutting the leader above the uppermost of those. Because those branches would end in flower buds, but you still need to create the framework, you tip them: if long, you prune back all the way to 1/3 to a desirably placed, outward or upward bud to promote strong growth. This is also what you would do in the second year of an unfeathered maiden
    (except the leader part, because you have removed that already in the
    first year)

    Pruning for bush tree, feathered maiden year 1/unfeathered maiden year 2, a video

    The next year (third for an unfeathered maiden, second for a feathered one) you cut back the framework branches about 1/3 to 1/2, to a suitable outward facing bud.

    Pruning for bush tree, feathered maiden year 2/unfeathered maiden year 3, a video
    Slightly different procedures apply to spindle bushes, in which you want a kinky leader (to slow growth) and a flat layer of branches. Different procedures apply for trained trees (cordons, stepovers, espaliers). The principles are however the same.

    In the orchard, we found some example of newly planted trees, at this latest stage, which show how variable the framework may look and that every tree need individual consideration.

    A nice goblet shape Tree with very upright growth,
    needs opening up further

    Regulatory and renovation pruning

    Subsequently, you get into a regime of regulatory pruning: removing
    dead, damaged and diseased wood, crossing branches, and you control the
    height and spread of a plant, allowing air through (to prevent disease)
    and sunshine (to ripen the fruits).

    What one is after is regular crops of good fruits of a good size: the level of fruiting can be helped to
    be more constant over time (otherwise some cultivars tend to go
    biennial, recovering one year from the effort of producing plenty of
    fruit the previous one by not fruiting much). But remember: fruit is the best growth regulator! Too much pruning and
    bud not set, and all the energy goes into vegetative growth: 20-25% is the maximum you should take out!

    We do not do spur pruning any more (cutting back new year’s growth to a bud, or a branch to a spur – with some exceptions): cutting back whole branches and whole limbs is the current best practice. The reason why every so often one needs to take out a full limb is that fruit
    bearing wood needs renovating, and when some branches get too old and uproductive, they need to go and be replaced by suitable new ones.

    Botanical pruning as I have known it is normally quite an arduous job as you have to keep in mind the natural shape of the plant and prune it accordingly. Restoration pruning of a community orchard responded to very similar principles. But regulatory pruning in a working orchard, semi commercial, I found rather confusing today. The principles to keep in mind are several.

    First, the shape of the tree. But, then, also its height, for the pickers, and its width, so that tractors have a clear path to do the fertilising and spraying. Then it’s the weight of the fruit, and the amount (see spur thinning).

    Some of the trees, especially the ones that have been pruned hard and are predisposed to this behaviour, may respond by throwing out plenty of new shoots, that go to crowd the canopy, and especially the centre of the tree, favouring the spread of mildew. 

    A mildew-y branch tip

    Althought the temptation is to cut them all out, the same rule as the rest of the wood apply: never take more than 1/3! Taking the weak and the strong, and going for the mid-way, is the best approach.

    Mildew bursting a bud

    And of course one needs to take all of the
    mildew-y branches, to avoid the spread of fungus in the spring, on dry days. Mildew makes branches look silvery in the sunshine (more difficult to spot in the rain) with blackened tips and buds. As some apple cultivars have naturally downy new growth, one has to make sure the buds are dead and blackened too. 

    If branches point down, they tend to be removed, as you tend to get less sugar in the fruit in such conditions.

    It was exhausting to try and remember and apply all the principles at once. And the feeling of not quite getting the essence of it mildly depressing. But there will be plenty of time for me to practice over the winter: this will be our main activity, with over 1500 trees!

    Spur thinning

     

    Apples come with three main fruiting habits:

    • most apples are “spur bearers”: they produce fruit buds on two-year-old wood and older; on the latter, fruit buds for on special short, branched stems called spurs
    • a handful of apples are “tip bearers”: they flower and fruit on the tips of previous year’s shoots. These are long branches, so the appearance of the tree is more untidy and sparse
    • some trees are “partial tip bearers”, so they have some spurs too 
    Typical spurs: short branched stems

    Pruning is largely the same for all types of trees, but on tip bearers you have to make sure you don’t go to hard on first year wood, which is what will bear flowers and fruits.

    Spurs sometimes get congested, which affect the size and quality of the fruit. As a rule, there should be no more than 2 spurs every 10 cm or the gardener’s palm’s lenght. When there are too many spurs, spur thinning is in order. It is best to take out a whole spur then fiddle about with individual fruit buds on it.

    Restoration pruning 

     

    When a tree/orchard has been left to its own devices for a while, and cropping has been impacted, one should not give up: it can still be brought back! I have done some restoration pruning before and we did not dwell on this much, but the main rule is: don’t do it all in one go…

    Restoration needs to be spread over a few years, one suggested plan was:

    • taking care of dead, diseased and crossing branches in the 1st year
    • dealing with height in the 2nd year
    • sorting the spacing of branches in the 3rd year.



    Orchards are magical places…

    Fast forward to the 4th of February 2015, a whole winter spent pruning apple bushes…

    /Working in a group, each one trundling along our own row, I start tackling a rather impressive tree, no care in the world, having finally (yet not long ago) felt I have grasped the whole picture, when my colleagues stops me: “That’s the most difficult tree in the orchard, it needs removing only a few, large limbs, I’ll call Jim!”

    So, all around the “Duck’s Bill”, us colleagues and the fruit expert, discuss which limbs must go and for which reasons, something I’ve always enjoyed doing at the Urban Orchard Project, but not done much here (there’s all those trees to go through!). I get my cuts and reasoning pretty much straight (I told you I grasped it…). I am allowed to get on with the pruning. I enjoy the physical effort greatly.

    Here you go, I introduce you to the majestic Malus domestica “Duck’s Bill” and its prunings!

    Malus domestica “Duck’s Bill”

  • It’s Christmas time

    Christmas is approaching fast, so all the trainees have been invited to help with decorating the glasshouse, while receiving some induction into the process of growing display poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) and Chrisanthemum spp.

    Poinsettia Christmas tree

    It turns out Christmas time starts in March for the display flower grower: that is when one needs to put in an order of your chosen cultivars, before they run out! They are propagated in May, poinsettias, and they come in by the end of June as 2 in plugs that need potting up on a heated bench (under some fleece for a week or so to speed establishment). Pinching straight afterwards to 5-6 pairs of leaves helps the plant bush up, and a very strict regime of watering 3 times a week follows. Poinsettias are short day flowering plants that would normally start changing colours in September: too early for Christmas. To delay the process, during August and September they are exposed to night-break lighting (with energy saving bulbs) at 10 PM and 2 AM, so the bracts only start changing colour at the end of October. There is a video going in the glasshouse, that demonstrates the whole process.

    That’s how one gets such perfect looking plants for the Christmas tree, made of poinsettias on a special metal frame.

    Standard poinsettia towering above the rest

    At the end of the season, some of the poinsettias are saved for propagation, and some are grown on as standards. They go through a dormant season in which they do not like water much: it is an art to get the balance right so as to keep them alive!

    Christmas chrysants

    Chrisanthemums go through a very similar propagation process, starting in June when cuttings come in. This year the chosen cultivars are from the ‘Perfection’ collection, which is bred locally to Woking. Potted four per pot, they are grown to get a single flower per stem, so thinning is required: 5 times during the growing season!  P&D are always a problem in the enclosed environment that greenhouses are, but chrysants are a particular concern because, on top of whitefly they suffer from white rust. Also, they are subjected to growth regulation treatment to get uniform height and to stiffen the stems that must bear such heavy flowers: perfect displays demand the adoption of rather extreme measures…

    Anyway, we all helped decorate the various sections of the glasshouse, where kids activities for Christmas will be inspired by the Narnia world, and I specifically worked arranging the chrysants’ display.

    The team was impressed how the look and feel of the place changed by the time we finished, and we definitely all left in a Christmas spirit!

    Chrysants display taking shape

  • Post savers

    Have you ever noticed that when a post or pole rots it does so generally at soil level?

    Step 2
    Step 4
    Step 5
    Step 6

    Apparently, it is in the topsoil where soil organisms in the organic matter, moisture and air combine to cause the most damage. So someone invented “polesavers”, sheets of bitumen on plastic sleeves that can be applied to poles around soil level. That apparently doubles their lifespan, so we are increasingly using them in the department.

    Today we were taught how to apply one with the use of a blow torch. Very useful things blow torches, but rather scary, so first thing it’s risk assessment.

    Leather gloves, eye protection, a stable stand to keep the blow torch when not in use, a stable stand for the pole, that allows for rolling it. Working in an open environment with no flammables around, and fire estinguishers to hand.

    Then we where shown how to cut a piece of bitumen sleeves and heat them on the pole.

    1. Clean the pole from any soil. Try to go for smooth surfaces so the bitumen sticks more easily
    2. Cut a slice of bitumen sheet 
    3. Measure down to 6 feet/1.83 cm which is how tall we usually have our posts
    4. Apply a slice of the sleeve (must be big enough to overlap a little) around the expected soil level on the pole, some 15 cm above it, and let it hang around the post
    5. Heat one side until it wrinkles, which means it is adhering
    6. Move to the other side, heat it, and with leather gloves press the side edge on the pole
    7. Go back to the initial side and finish heathing the sleeve, rolling the post, until you reach the other edge
    8. Press the othes side edge so it sticks well
    9. Roll the pole while heating the top and bottom edges, and press them into place
    The finished posts

  • The forage garden

    Behind the Model Fruit Garden and on one’s way to the orchard, there’s an area that’s left wilder, with some tall trees and some brash, whose redevelopment has been undergoing for the last few years into a forage garden. Some edibles I find rather intriguing already grow in there: Arbutus unedo, Hyppophae rhamnoides, Lonicera caerulea, Aronia melanocarpa, a range of Rubus…

    One of the hollies that we removed

    … but the area still needs some improvement, and I am glad my colleague thought of me to work on removing some hollies (Ilex aquifolium) and sloes (Prunus spinosa), as I have missed brash clearing from my days as a volunteer with the National Trust on Ashridge Estate.

    Holly layering itself

    It was hard work, and I really enjoyed the sawing away, and the digging out of stumps as we removed two hollies (they do layer themselves under leaf litter, as I learnt!),
    three sloes and a hazel stump.

    Sloes halfway through the clearing Hazel stump

    There was one more reason why I was particularly keen to work on holly at this particular time of the year: Christmas wreaths. Since my days at school when we were thought by our German teacher how to make them, I have enjoyed this festive activity.

    One of the wreaths at home

    So I asked permission to keep some of the branches, and, armed with those metal hangers they give you in drycleaners (which are easily turned into a round frame on which to work), some colourful ties and baubles, I have since made two for home, one for my student accomodation and one for the office.

    While we were busy hacking away, we received an unexpected visit from a colleague with a surprise: he had found a flatworm, and he know I might be interested to see one.

    There are two species of flatworm that are not natives of the UK: the New Zealand flatworm (Arthurdendyus triangulatus), and the Australian flatworm (Australoplana sanguinea) and it is an offence under Section 9 of the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 to release any of those in the wild once they have been found. It is not exceedingly good news to find these two flatworms anyway, because they feed on earthworms, one of the soil’s best aerators.

    We identified our find as the Australian ‘offender’ so we boxed it up for sending to our P&D lab for further action. It is important not to touch the flatworms as their mucus can be irritating, so here it is in its full glory on my glove (and then again in its box), for anyone that might be interested to see one.

    Australian flatworm (Australoplana sanguinea)

    Australian flatworm (Australoplana sanguinea)

  • Divided about rhubarb

    RHS Garden Wisley holds the National Collection of Rhubarb and today we were taught how to divide and replant crowns.

    Autumn is best, because if you plant rhubarb in the spring, you are then required to keep watering the new plant to help its establishment.

    Adding manure to the hole

    The first step in the process is to dig a suitable hole and fork into the bottom a good amount of manure, as rhubarb is a rather hungry crop. As rhubarb likes best a 6.7 pH, spent mushroom compost (manure + lime to take the acidity) is ideal.

    Then one has to decide whether to lift a crown or only slice a portion off: that depends on the size of the crown itself. A large crown will tend to die and produce weaker buds in the centre, so you can slice an external portion, including one or more vigourous buds, without lifting the whole lot. But a smaller crown needs lifting before dividing – that might also be the case if you have to check for pests in between the roots, i.e. weevil grubs.

    Clean the crown of any broken roots

    The crown is best divided to some 20 cm, with more than one good bud, so that the new plant does not take too long to establish to a good size. Once you have divided it to the right size, you need to clean the fleshy roots (in autumn all of the fine roots will have died down and you are only left with the storage roots) to be sure you take away any broken bits. In fact, those will rot in the ground and may affect the health of the new plant. If you are lifting a crown to split it, it might be worth to save any spare buds and pot them up as a spare plant. But never leave it the pot more than one year, as rhubarb roots like to spread.

    Give the plant a good shake
    Firm  the soil

    Rhubarb does not like to sit in water, hence replanting needs to be done so that the buds are above ground. To achieve that successfully, you need to plant in the new hole, then shake the plants inside it to fill any air pokets, then firm the soil without burying the buds.

    Job done! The next thing is to mulch the soil just as they break bud in the spring, to keep moisture in the soil. That’s a delicate job: too early and you trap cold in the soil, too late and the leaves coming out will now allow you to mulch to the ideal distance from the buds: 15 cm or so, so you won’t retain enough moisture where it is needed.

    But down to my rhubarb meditations.

    Rhubarb’s fleshy roots

    I love rhubarb on my plot at home. A plant that was originally cropped for its roots: for medicinal purposes and to make a yellow die, it is now used as a commercial crop in the UK for its leaves’ petioles (the leaves are rich in oxalic acid and therefore toxic, so they are discarded straight after picking). I like them best made into jam with lemon juice, or in a rhubarb cheesecake. When rhubarb bolts, the flower scapes are very architectural, and rather beautiful.

    So I should be happy that in the Cottage Garden there are several rhubarb plants, 7 or so, in two different places. However, they take up a lot of space, as their leaves can grow to 1 m (which is also the ideal planting space). How to get them to fit into the new design nicely?

    Should they be together in one place, and would it look good enough, a large patch of rhubarb, in the summer and as it gradually dies back in the autumn? Should I interplant with some bulbs, for spring colour while the plants are still dormant? Or if I scatter them in the area, would that look better?

    I am still divided about it.

  • Plans taking shape!

    Another great day’s work in the Cottage Garden as I got our intern and one trainee to help too.

    My proposal for a new path was accepted, so I marked it out with bamboo canes and string and we dug in (literally) first thing in the morning. By teabreak time, we had already finished the outline. We had then to spread the extra soil, which was very useful to raise the ground level where a tree had been planted too high, and to fill in some dips here and there.

    Some plants were in the way of the path, namely a couple of Agapanthus and 3 of the 4 blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum) shrubs in the area, so we had to move them. It is not ideal time to move Agapanthus as they are tender perennials and they’d rather be left alone over winter and only moved in spring, but we decided to go ahead anyway as the plants, should they die, are easily replaced – that might not always be the case, hence careful early planning might be needed. Sometimes trees are root-pruned one year in advance of moving them after a year, so that they have enough time to put up new growth of fine roots (which will enable better establishment) before the operation takes place.

    Ribes nigrum flowers

    It was good enough time to move the blackcurrants, though, even if the season has been exceptionally mild and they are not fully dormant yet. I love blackcurrants with their unassuming but prettiest of flowers, delicious and nutritious berries and, most of all, fragrant foliage that releases on the lightest brushing against the plants. Because of that, we have now replanted them alongside the paths, so that visitors can enjoy them close-up.

    Divided Sedum crown
    Sprawling, low to the ground Sedum on the left,
    on the right, Sedum that received the Chelsea chop

    Three people can work rather fast together, so we also managed to prune back the Sedum that was too sprawling: my colleague last year had experimented giving some plants a Chelsea chop, which had a rather marked impact on the affected plants, which have remained compact and tidy. The ones that were used for comparison, however, needed trimming back – you can see why in the picture on the rightm taken earlier in the month. We then lifted and divided them, ready for next year, when I want to interplant them with a vegetable crop, which I’m not going to reveal now…

    After a good tidy up, we could take some pictures of the result: I loved it and was so thankful to my colleagues that made it possible so quickly.

    View from the main path: before
    View from the main path: after
    View from the inside: before
    View from the inside: towards the end

     

    As I had taken a panorama picture from the same spot on the main path one month and a half ago, I can now make a comparison of the wider view. There is now closer access to the blackberries, the chuckleberries (a cross of redcurrant, gooseberry and jostaberry ), the two Malus that flank the path on one side and the Asimina triloba (or pawpaw, a rather interesting tree too) on the other.

    Panorama view from the main path: 3 Oct

    Panorama view from the main path: 21 Nov

  • Fig dressing

    The preparations for winter continue, and today it was the Model Fruit Garden fan-trained fig’s turn to be put to sleep.

    The fig, ready to go to bed

    The first step was pruning the tree, untying it from the frame.

    Syconium inflorescence, with inward looking florets and fruits

    Figs (an inflorescence called syconium giving origin to a multiple, accessory fruit) form in the leaf
    axils at the tip of new branches, so it is necessary constantly to generate new material through replacement pruning.

    Cutting back to stubs

    This consists in taking back some of the older branches to stubs – the only case (together with Dutch
    cuts) where leaving snags after pruning is not frowned upon for plant’s health reasons. To preserve the shape of the fan, and keep branches to an appropriate distance of some 10 cm, one also has to cut some branches back to their origin, but one has to make sure to preserve enough branch tips to get fruiting the following summer.

    The pruning regime for trained figs also consisted of pinching back new shoots to 5 leaves before the end of June, so they produce shorter sideshoots, that have time to ripen before the frosts.

    The fig is planted in a concrete pipe section to restrict growth and improve fruiting (one could use concrete slabs, as I do at home), but roots have a habit to run out on the surface and away, so we did some root pruning too to bring them back. As figs layer quite easily, the lowest branches also needed pulling outof the ground and pruning back where they had rooted.

    The pruned fig

    Wood turning mature (still part green)

    Figs are hardy plants, when the wood is completely mature, but in the UK it is best to give them protection so as not to risk losing branch tips that are still not completely ripe.

    So the next step was to cover the tree with bracken, a material that does not soak in water, so helps keep the plant dry as well as warm – it comes with a minor health risk, though, as bracken spores (relased mostly on hot dry days in late summer) may be carcinogenic if inhaled, so one might want to wear a face mask if doing this often.

    We train our fig against a screen, so we put bracken between the tree and the frame, and then secured some netting along the whole widtht and height in front of the tree and stuffed bracken in between there too.

    There is a best way to stuff bracken by pulling leaflets from the stems (that will be discarded), bunching them up all in the same direction (fronds down) and using them like that, nice and tidy.  The reason is so that you can take it out without too much effort in the spring… if you get to take it out, that is! This year we could not do it in spring because a robin nested cosily into it, and we had to wait for the fledglings to leave the nest.

    Steps in the covering of the fig
    After one trailer full of bracken, we just needed a bit more for the front
    Fig in pots under cover

    To complete our education on figs, we were taken round to the fig collection we have in pots under
    cover in the greenhouse: they need free draining compost but regular watering and feeding, because in their natural dry habitat they spread far and wide to look for their nutrients.

    There is plenty of information online to grow figs both outdoors and in pots:

    RHS fig plant profile
    Grow your own figs

    I am fascinated by stories, and the one that caught my attention most today was one about there being volunteer figs around the country, outside bigger towns, on riverbanks, dating back to Victorian England. Apparently, dried figs were a popular festive food and they came seeded – the seed ended up in the sewers and were discharged in the rivers, where they germinated in the warmer microclimate.

    Pollination and seed formation in figs is a very complex thing, for one the flower are enclosed in the syconium, so they are not easily accessed. But tiny – 1mm – wasps have co-evolved with the plant in its natural environment to enter through the fig’s ostiole (the opening opposite the peduncle) and pollinate it while using the syconium as a breeding pod. That’s amazing and if you want to read more about it I found some great sources.

    Seeds?

    But what I have not been able to check out is the statement that only figs from their native environments contain (viable) seeds because there are no suitable wasps in the UK.

    I sliced open one of the figs we removed from the tree while working on it, and I can see what look like seeds. Are they?

    Some of the fig cultivars we grow in the UK are parthenocarpic: does that mean they produce no seed or unviable seed?

    I could not find a precise answer. If anyone knows and wants to put me out of my misery… 🙂

About Me

M.Paola M.Paola, that’s me

I got my first allotment in the UK in 2007 and started growing my own food. Learning as I went along was not enough, so I studied horticulture. Faced with the horticultural warfare, I became a conscientious objector: I use no chemicals and support organic principles and regulations.

Brexit gave me a new life in the Netherlands, three new plots by a nature reserve and an MSc in sustainable food systems.

I write in my personal capacity and, as a language perfectionist and a non native speaker, I keep reviewing my entries’ text for clarity.

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